The previous weeks have been full of changes, and I have been dreaming about some days of retreat in a secluded place. When we finally moved to the Algarve, we went camping. It may seem a bit weird, but it was the first time in my life when I slept in a tent. I must admit that I loved it, and the place that we stayed in helped a lot.
Right beyond the border of the Algarve region, when hilly Alentejo draws a serene landscape of oak and olives tree groves, is the place called Zambujeira do Mar.
It's a tranquil place, with only 1000 inhabitants. As it's after the summer season and during corona time, most of the white houses that create a familiar rural vibe remain empty. We pass the only open restaurant that sells kebabs, a playground with only two kids hanging from the monkey bars, and a big square that I assume is the life centre of this town during the summer.
The steady roar of the ocean leads to the place that we want to see. A little church stands in the square. Capela de Nossa Senhora do Mar, with its red roof tiles, was built in the second half of 20th century, even though the typical connection of white and blue can suggest it's a bit older.
The bright sun reflects from its white walls. A small bell rocks in the wind. We come a bit closer to see how the free spectacle of nature is starting. Rough cliffs covered with dark green plants tower over the beach with the white sand pierced here and there with spiky rocks. It's a perfect frame for the panorama of the ocean that all of a sudden changed its angry image and turned into a peaceful and serene scene.
People still enjoy the last sunny days that recall summer. Towels are scattered on the beach, creating a unique mosaic of the people that can be seen from the top of the cliff.
The night brings coolness that dispels doubts that the autumn is on its way. We woke up quite early, when the sun was still hiding beneath the blanket of the night. There is nothing better than the walk in the very early morning when the dusk turns into the dawn.
Songs of the ocean that we can hear from our camping site enchanted our steps that led straight to the beach that yesterday we could admire in the full sun. From above, we could only see the beach covered by a milky mist. We follow the wooden steps that safely lead from the top of the cliff to the sand.
The Atlantic Ocean is emerging from the fog. Just like when artists draw outlines that after a while will be filled with colours. When I sit down, stillness soothes the alerted senses, bringing relief with each breath.
The afternoon brings another wave of heat that doesn't stop us from going to hike. There is something special in walking in nature, even if I'm a bit lazy when it comes to doing cardio exercises. But beautiful views give some extra motivation to start walking.
Costa Vicentina spreads from Burgau, through Sagres, the most Southern spot of Portugal (read here), to São Torpes. It has a unique fauna and flora that is protected by the area of the Natural Park of Sudoeste Alentejano. On the coast, you won't see resorts or restaurants, just wild nature, with sandy dunes and solid rocks.
On the trail, from the top of the cliff, wherever I go, I admire immaculate beaches to which only tides and outflows have access. The ruffled water of the ocean enters the arms of high rocks and blurs footprints of the birds that were resting on the sand looking for some rest after flying in the gusts of the Atlantic wind.
The virgin beauty is highlighted by the scent. I believe it's unique for this part of Portugal, and maybe even for the world, as its the only place I have faced it. The smell of seaweed that the Atlantic has thrown on the sand mixes with salty air, but the main ingredients have their quiet life on the cliff. Succulent plants fill the space. Some of them impress with deep, rich greens. Others have red outlines that from a distance makes this place looks like it's burning. What they have in common are essentials oils that under the heat are released into the air, creating this memorable fragrance.
On one hand, I regret that it's impossible to close it in a bottle and use it every day as a wonderful perfume. On the other, I am happy that it's unprecedented and I'm going to long for it as soon as I leave this place. Because when you breathe it in the next time, you feel that finally you have come back home. To the naked rocks, chanting ocean, whispering winds.
Are you planning trip to Zambujeira do Mar? Check this cool experiences to make your stay even more memorable:
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